One of the biggest categories of questions I got about our trip to Egypt are what I’d consider “special concerns”. These were questions about things like traveling as a woman, being LGBT in Egypt, allergy and other health concerns, accessibility, etc. Given the relative exotic-ness of the destination, these questions are an understandable source of concern for many travelers. I’ve tried to cover the general categories that most folks seemed to be concerned about, but if you have any other specific questions, please feel free to leave a comment and I’ll either reply with an answer or answer it in a future post.
Traveling in Egypt as someone gay, lesbian, or bisexual:
So, while homosexuality isn’t technically illegal in Egypt, homosexual sex is, and from reports I’ve read from local queer Egyptians, the government’s line between those two things is blurry at best. I would advise removing hookup apps from your phone, and any nudes or incriminating photos from your phone before you go (or hide the photos via a photo vault app if you don’t want to fully remove them), as the police can force you to unlock your phone and they have been used as evidence against individuals in the past. Be cautious about who you’re open about your sexuality with.
That said, Richard and I never really felt unsafe. We saw plenty of obviously queer couples at the hotels we stayed in, and even one or two while out and about at sites. Also, Muslim culture has normalized affection between straight men with a close relationship like brothers, best friends, etc. You will see men walking in public holding hands, having an arm around another’s shoulder’s, greeting eachother with a kiss on the cheek, etc. I don’t recommend public displays of affection as a foreigner, but if you have a moment or two of affection, nobody is going to think anything of it. Richard and I were presumed to be brothers by many of the Egyptians we encountered, as we seemed to be closer than just friends, but since queer relationships aren’t on most people’s radar, that assumption wasn’t made.
TRAVELING IN EGYPT AS SOMEONE Transgender:
I had some hesitations about this trip as someone who is trans, but they mostly turned out to be unfounded. Was it a super comfortable country to visit as a trans person? No. But, I never really had anything that I found particularly onerous either. I couldn’t get a massage with Richard because they’re nude, and I really wished I’d been able to use a urinal at some of the restrooms we stopped at, as opposed to the (generally pretty dirty) stalls, but that was the extent of it for the most part. Trans people aren’t really on the cultural radar in Egypt – I’m sure they exist there, but not openly. As a result, if you pass decently well, nobody is going to second guess whether you belong somewhere like a bathroom or not. I will say that I felt very comfortable traveling in Egypt as a trans man, but I would’ve been slightly less comfortable as a trans woman. Had I been somehow “clocked” by someone during the trip, the ramifications would’ve been minor, and likely amounted to some confusion about how a woman had a beard, but the consequences resulting from being perceived to be a man in a woman’s area would’ve been far more serious. So, that’s something to consider in regards to your comfort level, passing privilege, etc.
Traveling in Egypt as a woman:
This is probably the question I’ve gotten the most out of all of them, and it’s a concern I would’ve had a few years back as well, before I transitioned.
Traveling in Egypt as a woman isn’t really something to worry about, especially if you practice a little cultural sensitivity. In Muslim culture, women are seen as kind of off-limits, delicate things. Now, there are some issues I have with that viewpoint in general, but it does mean that in actuality, women are actually harassed less than they would be on the streets of most major American cities. Catcalling is extremely rare, and actual harassment is even moreso, because to do either of those things would be pretty against much of traditional Muslim culture. In general, men will be more polite to you as a woman than they will be to another man. There were two women in our group, and neither of them reported any kind of poor treatment, and I’ve heard similar from other women I’ve spoken to who have visited the country.
That said, there are a few things you can do that will further negate your chances of having any issues, and that honestly, show a solid degree of cultural sensitivity and politeness toward the place you’re a guest in. Keeping your arms and legs covered is advisable in general due to avoiding the sun, but it also follows cultural norms to do so (this is also the case with men, though not quite as strongly). Likewise, I recommend keeping something on your head to protect yourself from the sun, and it also helps to keep you within cultural norms. But, even locals don’t always follow this tradition – I’d say about 20-30% of the women I saw, especially younger women, didn’t wear hijab on the street. Do please bring at least one headscarf to wear if you’re planning on visiting religious centers like mosques (and do visit them! they’re gorgeous!), though.
Traveling in Egypt with food allergies and other medical issues:
I will say that this is one area that you might have a difficult time with. Though developing more and more day by day, Egypt is definitely still a third world country, and with that comes a low level of quality in health care, a lack of accessibility, and a degree of lack of information about food allergies.
Food allergies that are more mild would not be a concern in Egypt – if you can get accidentally exposed and not require a hospital visit, you should be okay. Egyptian cuisine is kind of a cross between Greek/Mediterranean and Middle Eastern, for what it’s worth, when considering your allergies. Many places will be able to accommodate specific food requirements – be sure to tell your guide, so that he can communicate them to the staff – but I would be hesitant to visit if I had a life-threatening allergy to something that is common in the cuisine.
Accessibility is unfortunately an area in which Egypt is pretty severely lacking. I saw virtually no wheelchair ramps anywhere, and even some of the most visited sites require some degree of hiking around through sand/rocks and/or climbing up things. I saw a good number of elderly tourists, but mostly those who were still pretty limber, it seemed.
Healthcare is another issue I’d be cautious about. If you have a condition which might easily land you in hospitalization, I would take as many steps as possible to stabilize my health prior to departure. Egyptian hospitals are equipped to take care of the basics quite well, but for anything particularly specialized, you’d have to fly to Europe or somewhere like Dubai to get higher quality care. I’d recommend that you exercise caution if you have significant health concerns.